Food & Wine | Food

LPV's Top Pick for Moroccan

Time tested classic

LPS says: still Rockin' the Casbah

Momo is one of our long standing favourites and its longevity is testament to the professionalism with which this classic establishment is run. It was almost 20 years ago that nightlife impresario Mourad (Momo) Mazouz opened his eponymous restaurant, in what was then a quiet back street off Regent Street. Heddon Street is now a thriving destination hub for buzzing bars and restaurants, with Momo still dominating the scene, with its inviting restaurant terrace and next door the Mo Tearoom & Bazaar. Here, sip on a signature Momo's cocktail, icy cold and packed with sweet mint, as the heady scent of shisha pipes and oriental beats creates a mesmerising atmosphere. Inside the restaurant, the dining room has all the allure of a Marrakesh boudoir, with brass lamps casting dim shadows on its stone walls, filigreed wooden window screens and low wooden tables strewn with brocade cushions. The decor is as seductive as the food. Sweet morsels of assorted Moroccan briouats crumble lusciously, deeply filled with spiced flavours of the Magreb: cinnamon, cumin and orange blossom. The wood pigeon pastilla is a moist parcel of scented almonds and laced with unctuos marmalade. For lighter, fresher options, look out for the excellent new changes to the menu that include luscious cuts of tuna in the lightly spiced tartare and the seared scallop lifted with yellow beetroot. Main courses include fall-off-the-bone meat tagines, with savoury olive and lemon or sweetened with soft prune and roasetd nuts. The Couscous Momo is a cornucopia of dazzling tastes, from the fluffy light dome of golden grains, to the steaming broth with silky vegatables and of course, the array of slowly cooked meats, from flamed skewers of saffran chicken, spicy mergez, and succulent lamb shank. Tounge-tickling condiments of harissa, chick peas and plump raisins add yet another layer of texture and zesty flavour. Momo's continues to seduce us with its charm and sensual lure - but don't be fooled by the casual air and the sight of staff merrily weaving between tables and dancing to the Moroccan birthday salutes - its success has always been in the impressive ability to seasmlessly mix fun with absolute professionalism. With the highly capable Mohammed (formerly of Momo's other venture Sketch) at the helm, his dynamic team here are keeping the Casbah well and truly rocking.


Momo Restaurant

25 Heddon Street




020 434 4040


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